The evaluation of the physical-chemical properties of cosmetic products and their raw materials 

 

These parameters are used to evaluate bulk cosmetics and raw materials during their manufacture. The methods used must have the speed and reliability that will allow you to meet your industrial constraints.

ANALYTEC is an analytic chemistry laboratory specialised in cosmetic products whose reputation is built on proven methods. Specialised equipment is used to evaluate the physical-chemical properties of bulk cosmetics and raw materials:

  • pH
  • dynamic viscosity (BROOKFIELD)
  • peroxide index measurements
  • Acidity index
  • Iodine index
  • Saponification index
  • Hydroxyl index
  • Flash-point (F°p)
  • water activity measurement (Aw)
  • dry residue measurement
  • Refractive index
  •  ... 

These raw material properties are generally evaluated on reception (Identification), or on expiry (extension/prolongation of use). 

When applied to newly produced bulk products, these measurements are used to assess their safety (Aw, pH, Flash-point). And they can also be used quite simply to define the product’s physical-chemical properties, thus providing the means to evaluate changes to the cosmetic product over time (Stability evaluation).


Cosmetic product active ingredient dosage:

Cosmetic product active ingredient dosage largely involves chromatography techniques (HPLC and GC). This provides the means to guarantee the concentrations of regulated and/or highly important active ingredients (preservatives, UV-Filters, vitamins, anti-dandruff, peeling products, other active ingredients, etc.). These substances are the keystones of your formulations and must be able to allow you to justify their performance and respond to consumer expectations.

Currently used preservatives, as listed in appendix V of the EC/1223/2009 regulation, are mostly dosed using High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC-UV (DAD)) within a maximum 48 hour period. In the same way, the organic UV-filters listed in appendix VI are measured using proven techniques (adaptation of the NF EN 16344 and NF EN 17156 standards). 

Increasing recourse to conservation aiding substances (Boosters) requires the use of specific dosage methods using GC-MS and HPLC-MS/MS.

Many active ingredients are measured in this way to guarantee
that their formula concentrations are correct:


  • Ascorbic acid, o-Ethyl-ascorbic acid, Ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
  • Citric acid
  • Mandelic acid 
  • Glycolic acid
  • Kojic acid
  • Azelaic acid
  • Lactic acid 
  • Levulinic acid / sodium levulinate
  • Allantoin
  • Arbutin (α and β)
  • Caffeine
  • Niacinamide and Niacin
  • Panthenol
  • Piroctone olamine
  • Resveratrol
  • Retinol, retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate 
  • α-Tocopherol, Tocopheryl acetate, 
  • Urea

Verification of the absence of unwanted substances

This has become essential from a regulatory and media-related point of view, it involves using precision technologies and methods, we can assist you in this: from implementation to operation. We can help you to face the issues concerning: 

  • “specific substance”-free claims
  • allergens
  • phthalates
  • plasticizers and endocrine disruptors
  • parabens
  • nitrosamines
  • nano-particles
  • heavy metals

By using precision technologies such as HPLC-MS/MS, ANALYTEC implements targeted analysis protocols which can respond to those regulatory requirements (Appendix II of the EC/1223/2009 regulation) specific to cosmetic products such as:

  • nitrosamine dosage (NDELA, NDMA, NDEA, NDPA and NMOR) using LC-MS/MS (protocol adapted to the NF ISO 15819 standard)
  • Phthalate dosage using GC-MS (Protocol adapted to the NF EN 16521 standard)
  • the dosage of 41 different Plasticizers (Art. 15, CMR, Appendix II, Endocrine disruptors in certain cases) using HPLC-MS/MS
  • fragrance allergen dosage using GC-MS (Freely adapted from the NF EN 16274 standard)
  • paraben dosage as a trace element
  • the verification of the absence of Formaldehyde using HPLC-UV (dosed addition and DNPH derivatisation method)
  • residual solvent dosage using GC-MS
  • Triclosan, Trilocarban and Climbazol dosage using HPLC-UV
  • monomer residues using GC-MS
  • furanocoumarin dosage using HPLC-UV

We call on the services of a qualified partner group with whom
we propose cosmetic product specific consultations for:

  • The dosage of chemical elements such as heavy metals using ICP-MA, ICP-AES, AFS
  • The dosage of European pharmacopoeia listed pesticides
  • The specification of nano-particles

Controlled ageing evaluations for cosmetic products: Stability, Compatibility, Container/Content Interaction, Migration

These evaluations and the results thereof must be presented in your PID. The contents of these evaluations are decided on by the responsible person and/or safety assessor. However, thanks to their extensive experience in the matter, ANALYTEC can help to guide you on the best technical and cost-effective solutions to be used.

Controlling active ingredients and the absence of unwanted substances will allow you to respond to questions concerning the stability, compatibility, interaction and migration of cosmetic products. These controls are completed over time periods, under controlled storage conditions and combining the physical-chemical properties data.